Day 1 - Getting Started - Assembling the hull

To start things off, and considering I am working on the dining room table for many of the steps, I put down two flattened corrugated cardboard boxes and then wrapped the end of the table and the hardboard with plastic sheeting. Pick a spot with good lighting, you will need it.

After reviewing the parts list and assuring that everything had come in the box that was supposed to be there, I proceeded to layout the wood pieces so I could separate the laser-cut pieces, knock off the tabs connecting them and do a bit of sanding:

I used a sturdy X-acto knife to slice off the bulk of the tabs that were connecting the pieces:

Then I took the pieces to my belt sander and VERY gently ran all the edges across with the piece held flat on the work shelf. I chose 120 Grit for this process:

Then I used a 120 grit sheet of sandpaper to lightly sand along the grain on the flat surfaces:

I then marked off spots for the push pins along both edges of both side hull pieces. Be sure they are ⅛ inch from the edge. I added one additional pin at each end of each edge beyond what the instructions called for, just for more support when placing the bottom and deck:

I then taped up the bottom to the sides first using 3" long strips spaced 2" apart, per the instructions. This was followed by long pieces of tape along the chine. I strongly recommend ¾" Scotch blue painter's tape. Just be sure your hands are clean and oil free so you do not weaken the adhesive while applying. 

Be sure to keep tape out of the way of the area the deck will occupy. Note the push pins - they should stick in to the inside no more than ⅛". 

I taped the front real well. You will notice in the preceding photo that the two sides do not line up perfectly. This can be corrected later.

Here, the transom is attached by applying the tape to the transom first, then inserting the transom into the space between the sides. Be sure to get it lined up pretty well. Leave extra tape on either side of the transom so when you put it in place you can wrap the tape around the hull sides:

You can see below that the angles between the transom edges and the sides do not line up exactly. This is because the angle of the sides is too narrow, this will straighten out when the deck goes in place and helps line everything up:

Here is a view of the front, well taped. Be sure that the angle between each side and the bottom is relatively consistent:

Here, the deck is about to placed into the hull, prior to putting epoxy into the the inside of the hull. This is just a trial fit to see how everything lines up:

In the photo below, I have applied the non-pre-thickened clear epoxy to the areas along all hull joints in a ½" wide path on each piece. Do not apply any epoxy within ¼" of the top where the deck will sit and need to be bonded:

Another view - note that no epoxy should be applied to the area around the keel slot or where the rudder tube will be mounted. I marked that area off just to be sure:

I then immediately proceeded with mixing up the pre-thickened epoxy with the phenolic powder. Following the instructions, it took way more powder than I imagined it would to start to approach the required soft-serve ice cream-like consistency. I can safely say that it is at least 5 full teaspoons before even getting close:

Below, the epoxy has been applied on all seams, first with the brush and then smoothed over with the tip of the plastic spoon to give the epoxy the correct fillet shape and ensure a good thick seal:

I would have like to have been a bit neater but in the end, it really doesn't matter as none of this will be visible. Be sure to keep epoxy away from the top edge where the deck will be bonded. Maintain at least ¼ inch of clear area there. If you get any epoxy in those areas, be sure to wipe them clean:

Again, not the neatest job, but I have a good thick fillet along all seams. Be sure to maintain that ¼" margin at the top of the transom sides. I also marked the area where the rudder post epoxy will be placed to make sure I kept that area clean of epoxy during this step:

Once the epoxy is applied, place the deck back into the hull, resting on the top pins. The hull will take the proper shape at this point. Tape the deck in place securely:

Turn the hull upside down and apply some weight across the bottom to force the hull into proper shape and hold it there while the epoxy sets up. Since Stephen King is so verbose, his books make nice large weights. Choice of author is yours:

That's it for day 1. I left things to dry thoroughly overnight.